Baseline - page 4
Photograph courtesy of Symphony Angel.
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How did surfing start? It seems to have been adapted
from the traditional Polynesian sport of surfing in a canoe.
My kind of surfing –with a board – was first described by Captain James
King, R.N., F.R.S., in March 1779, when he saw a native surfer at Kealakekua,
Hawaii Island. The official
artist on King’s ship drew a sketch of the native surfer. Just how do
you surf? Basically, all you have to do
is place a flat or streamlined-curved board on the water, some distance
offshore. Then kneel, or stand on it when a
powerful wave comes along.
And
let it carry you to the shore.
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So you need
very high waves?
To surf properly – yes!
But you can have great fun even when the sea isn’t so tough!
Some of the highest waves are found off Makaha Beach, Hawaii.
Are you good at
it? Yes – fairly good at it.
In 2064 I held the record for the longest ‘ride’.
I went along for about 5,000 feet at Waikiki Beach, Oahu.
There’s nothing like it, when you’re cutting across a wave and you see
the beach racing to greet you!
It’s real excitement. |
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an E-MAIL to
the SPECTRUM HEADQUARTERS site