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Photograph courtesy of Symphony Angel.

How did surfing start?

It seems to have been adapted from the traditional Polynesian sport of surfing in a canoe.  My kind of surfing –with a board – was first described by Captain James King, R.N., F.R.S., in March 1779, when he saw a native surfer at Kealakekua, Hawaii Island.  The official artist on King’s ship drew a sketch of the native surfer.

Just how do you surf?

Basically, all you have to do is place a flat or streamlined-curved board on the water, some distance offshore.  Then kneel, or stand on it when a powerful wave comes along.  And let it carry you to the shore.

So you need very high waves?

To surf properly – yes!  But you can have great fun even when the sea isn’t so tough!  Some of the highest waves are found off Makaha Beach, Hawaii.

Are you good at it?

Yes – fairly good at it.  In 2064 I held the record for the longest ‘ride’.  I went along for about 5,000 feet at Waikiki Beach, Oahu.  There’s nothing like it, when you’re cutting across a wave and you see the beach racing to greet you!  It’s real excitement.

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